Estudio morfológico del perfil de playa: modelo de perfil de equilibrio en dos tramos

Résumé

The equilibrium profile concept is a useful tool in beach morphodynamics studies. Considering the differents dynamics processes that operate along the profile (breaker and shoaling), it is proposed a new equilibrium profile model: two-sections profile. This model fits an expression to the breaker section, where the dissipation is due to the breaker turbulence and other expression to the shoaling section, where the dissipation is due to bottom friction. The obtained formulations associate a dissipation coefficient (A and C) with each section. This coefficients are associated with energy dissipation and hold important morphological information built-in. The model was validated with profiles measured in natural ocurring beaches along the spanish coast. The relationships between the form coefficients (A and C) and the hidrodynamic and sedimentary characteristics were also established, using the Dean parameter, Ω=H/wT. These relationships give to the model a predictive capacity: knowing the incident waves and the grain size of the beach, the 2-section model predicts the resultant beach profile morphology.